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Shop Table Legs
  • Welcome to HLC Support
  • Table Legs
    • Choosing the Perfect Legs
      • Choosing The Correct Height Table Legs
        • Anthropometrics
          • Desk & Dining Anthropometrics
          • Counter & Anthropometrics
          • Bar & Poseur Anthropometrics
      • Choosing Legs for a Strong & Stable Build
        • How to Improve Stiffness of a Table Top
          • Brace-Free Stiff Tabletop Examples
          • How to Add Bracing to a Table Top
        • Building Long Tables
        • When to Choose a Full Frame Leg Base
        • Leg Weight Loading Guidelines
          • Estimating the Weight of a Table Top
          • Strength & Stability: Tall Legs (86 - 102cm)
          • Strength & Stability: Table Legs (71cm)
          • Strength & Stability: Bench Legs (40cm)
          • Strength & Stability: Coffee Table Legs (25 - 35cm)
          • Stength & Stability: Furniture Feet (10 - 20cm)
      • Choosing Legs for Difficult Materials
        • Fixing Legs to Glass Tops
        • Fixing Legs to Stone Table Tops
        • IKEA Furniture
      • Choosing Legs for Different Environments
        • Legs for Outdoor Use
        • Legs for a Wet Room, Kitchen or Bathroom
        • Legs in Coastal Environments
        • Legs for Commercial Use
        • Legs for Outdoor Commercial Use
    • DIY Guides & Instructions
      • Product Guides & Care
        • Hairpin Leg Build Guide
        • Box Section Leg Build Guide
        • Box Frame Assembly
      • Project Build Guides
        • Building a Plywood Table
        • Building with Construction Lumbar
        • IKEA Hacks
        • Building a Scaffold Board Table
      • DIY Essentials
        • Positioning Table Legs
        • Wood Acclimation in Furniture Building
        • Dealing with Wood Movement
        • Dining Table Dimensions
        • Using Threaded Inserts
        • Fixing Legs to Stone Table Tops
        • Fixing Legs to Glass Tops
    • Specifications & Dimensions
      • Hairpin Leg Dimensions
      • Hairpin Leg Shipping Data
      • Box Section Leg Dimensions - Table & Bench
      • Box Section Leg Dimensions - Coffee Table
      • Box Section Leg Dimensions - Narrow Console
      • Box Hairpin Dimensions
      • Single Pin Dimensions
      • Wooden Leg Dimensions
      • Stool Dimensions
      • Square Frame Dimensions
      • Quad Frame Dimensions
  • Colours & Finishes
    • Choosing the Perfect Finish
      • When to Choose Raw Steel
      • Clear Coat vs. Raw Steel
      • When to choose stainless steel
      • What are the Different Finishes?
      • Colour Options & RAL Codes
      • Legs for Outdoor Use
    • Self Finishing
      • Cleaning Raw Steel
      • Painting Raw Steel
      • Self Finishing Raw Steel
      • Painting Over Powder Coat
  • Shelving
    • How to put up a Shelf
    • Specifications & Dimensions
      • Prism Shelf Bracket Dimensions
      • Suspense Shelf Bracket Dimensions
      • Prism Wall Desk Bracket Dimensions
  • Wall Hooks
    • J Wall Hook Build Guide
    • Specifications & Dimensions
      • J Wall Hook Dimensions
      • Hardwood Wall Hook Dimensions
  • Delivery
    • Set Delivery Location via "what3words"
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On this page
  • Painting
  • Single Coat Painting: Quick and Easy Method
  • Multi Coat
  • Tips for Success
  • Penetrating Oil: A Natural and Durable Finish
  • Why Choose Penetrating Oil?
  • How to Apply
  • Product Recommendation
  • Wax: A Simple, Stylish Finish for Steel Legs
  • Why Choose Wax?
  • How to Apply Wax
  • Recommendations
  • Limitations

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  1. Colours & Finishes
  2. Self Finishing

Self Finishing Raw Steel

Unless otherwise stated, mild steel is used on all our steel products. Unlike stainless steel, it will rust over time, so needs either protecting or maintained/cleaned to keep looking good.

Painting

Painting over raw steel can be achieved by:

Single Coat Painting: Quick and Easy Method

If you're looking for a straightforward approach to painting raw steel legs, one-coat metal paints like Hammerite Direct-to-Metal are an excellent option.

Why Choose Single Coat Paints?

  • Minimal Preparation: These paints adhere well to steel with minimal prep work. They can even be applied directly over light rust.

  • Durable and Versatile: They are suitable for both indoor and outdoor use, providing long-lasting protection against rust and wear.

  • Time-Saving: With no need for primers or multiple coats, the process is quick and efficient.

Steps to Apply:

  1. Clean the Surface:

    • Remove dirt, grease, and loose rust using a cloth or wire brush.

    • Degreasing isn’t always necessary but will improve adhesion and finish.

  2. Apply the Paint:

    • Use a brush, roller, or spray for application.

    • Ensure even coverage in a single coat to avoid drips or thick patches.

  3. Cure:

    • Allow the paint to dry as per the manufacturer’s instructions, typically 4–6 hours for touch dry and up to 24 hours for full curing.

Downsides Compared to Multi-Coat Methods:

  • Slightly Less Professional Finish: One-coat paints may lack the smooth, refined appearance achieved with primer and topcoat layers.

  • Limited Color Choices: These paints usually offer fewer options than automotive or multi-layer systems.

Multi Coat

1. Preparation

  • Clean the Surface:

    • Use WD-40 and a green scouring pad to remove dirt, grease, and rust.

    • Wipe the legs thoroughly with a clean rag, then degrease using acetone or a similar product to ensure a clean surface.

2. Priming

  • Zinc-Based Etch Primer:

    • Apply a zinc-based or acid etch primer designed for metal. These primers bond well to bare steel and provide excellent adhesion for the topcoat.

    • Use thin, even coats to avoid drips or runs.

    • Let the primer cure fully, typically 24 hours or as recommended by the manufacturer.

3. Top Coat

  • Automotive Spray Paint:

    • Use a high-quality single-part (1k) automotive paint in a spray can.

    • Apply 2–3 thin, even coats. Allow each coat to dry completely before applying the next (typically a few hours).

4. Optional Clear Coat

  • Protective Lacquer:

    • For added durability and a glossy finish, apply a clear lacquer over the topcoat.

    • Use 1–2 thin coats, letting it dry thoroughly between applications.

    • This step is especially recommended for outdoor furniture or high-use items.

5. Curing

  • Allow the painted legs to cure for 24–48 hours before installation or heavy handling.

Tips for Success

  • Environment: Paint in a well-ventilated area with minimal dust. Ideal temperatures are between 10°C and 25°C.

  • Spraying Technique: Hold the can about 20–30 cm away from the surface and use smooth, sweeping motions.

  • Touch-Up: Keep extra paint on hand for touch-ups in case of chips or scratches.

Penetrating Oil: A Natural and Durable Finish

For a minimalist approach to protecting raw steel legs from rust, a penetrating oil finish is an excellent choice.

Why Choose Penetrating Oil?

  • Rust Protection: The oil penetrates the metal's surface, filling microscopic gaps and forming a protective barrier against moisture and rust.

  • Natural Appearance: It preserves the raw steel’s natural look, with the finish being nearly invisible when dry.

  • Durability: Unlike paints or coatings, it doesn’t chip or peel, making it ideal for heavy-use items.

  • Versatility: Suitable for both indoor and outdoor applications, including furniture, gates, and other metalwork.

How to Apply

  1. Clean the Metal:

    • Wipe down the legs to remove any dirt or grease.

    • Ensure the surface is dry before applying the oil.

  2. Apply the Oil:

    • Use a clean rag to apply a generous amount of penetrating oil, such as Owatrol Oil.

    • Rub the oil into the metal evenly, ensuring complete coverage.

  3. Let It Soak:

    • Allow the oil to soak into the metal for a few hours. Wipe away any excess with a clean cloth to prevent residue buildup.

  4. Reapply as Needed:

    • For outdoor or high-humidity environments, reapply periodically to maintain protection.

Product Recommendation

We’ve had great success with Owatrol Oil, which offers excellent rust-inhibiting properties. It’s widely available and effective for both indoor and outdoor projects.

Tip: Avoid using linseed oil, as it doesn’t dry completely and may leave a sticky or yellow finish unless specially treated.

Wax: A Simple, Stylish Finish for Steel Legs

Applying wax is a great way to protect raw steel legs while preserving their natural character. This finish offers a subtle sheen and is ideal for indoor furniture or light-use projects.

Why Choose Wax?

  • Natural Look: Wax enhances the steel's raw, industrial aesthetic with a soft, matte or satin sheen.

  • Easy Application: Quick and straightforward to apply with minimal tools.

  • Reapplicable: Wax can be reapplied over time to maintain its protective qualities.

  • Gentle Protection: While not as robust as paint or penetrating oil, wax provides a basic barrier against moisture and prevents oxidation indoors.

How to Apply Wax

  1. Prepare the Surface:

    • Ensure the legs are clean, dry, and free of dust or grease. A quick wipe with a dry cloth is usually sufficient.

  2. Apply the Wax:

    • Use a clean, soft cloth to spread a thin, even layer of furniture wax over the metal surface.

    • For best results, use clear furniture wax or a specialized metal wax.

  3. Buff the Finish:

    • Once applied, allow the wax to sit for a few minutes, then buff it with a clean cloth to achieve your desired level of sheen.

  4. Reapply as Needed:

    • Wax finishes may need refreshing every couple of years, especially in high-traffic or humid environments.

Recommendations

  • Clear Furniture Wax: Works well for preserving the natural steel appearance.

  • Bowling Alley Wax: Provides a durable, smooth finish and works beautifully on metal.

Limitations

  • Indoor Use Only: Wax is not suitable for outdoor applications or heavy-use surfaces, as it doesn’t provide robust moisture protection.

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Last updated 3 months ago

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