> For the complete documentation index, see [llms.txt](https://support.thehairpinlegcompany.co.uk/llms.txt). Markdown versions of documentation pages are available by appending `.md` to page URLs; this page is available as [Markdown](https://support.thehairpinlegcompany.co.uk/table-legs/choosing-the-perfect-legs/choosing-legs-for-difficult-materials/fixing-legs-to-glass-tops.md).

# Fixing Legs to Glass Tops

Options for fixing legs to glass tops.

### Self-supporting full frame

For a glass tabletop, start with a full frame that is stable and self-supporting without the top attached. Use rubber buffers between the frame and glass.

Separate pairs of legs and hairpin legs both need the tabletop to hold them in position. Neither is self-supporting, so both have the same attachment and stability issues with glass.

If you want to keep the see-through look of clear glass, a full frame is usually the most practical choice.

Drilling glass is possible, but it is highly specialist work and we do not recommend it.

### Specialist bonded mounting plates

Bonding metal mounting plates to the glass is another option, but it is a highly technical process. A professional glazier will need to assess the glass and proposed fixing method. We cannot advise on this specialist method.

### Wooden or plywood plinth beneath glass

A plinth is an alternative for opaque glass, or for clear glass if you’re happy to see the wood through it. For example, you might choose the look of an oak or birch plywood top beneath the glass.

A strong wooden or plywood plinth fixed beneath the glass gives you a surface to screw the legs into. A 24 mm plywood base is one option, using the same general approach as for stone or marble tops. Ask your glazier to assess how the glass and plinth should be secured.