Attaching Legs To Tops

One of the most important aspects of your build is how you attach your legs to your top — whether it’s a table, stool, sideboard, TV stand, or even a bed.

The method you use will depend on the material and thickness of your top, as well as how often you plan to remove or reassemble the legs.

Fixing Legs to Wooden Table Tops

• For tops 18–25 mm or thicker, standard wood screws are the best option.

• Use pan head or cheese head screws; no countersink needed as our slots allow for movement with wood expansion.

• For thinner tops (12–15 mm), consider threaded inserts and M5/M6 bolts.

• For large or heavy tables, use longer screws or lag bolts.

• Use stainless steel screws for green or damp woods.

• Washers: only needed outdoors — use stainless with stainless screws to protect the coating.

Fixing Legs to Wooden Table Tops

Using Threaded Inserts

• Ideal when you want to remove or reattach legs frequently.

• Provide a strong, repeatable fixing using M5 or M6 bolts.

• Can be used in wood or plastic tops as thin as 12–15 mm with flat-bottom drilling.

• Drill precisely to the manufacturer’s stated hole size (e.g., 10.6 mm for M6).

• Offers a clean, professional look (Allen key assembly like flat-pack furniture).

Using Threaded Inserts

Fixing Legs to Stone Table Tops

• Options:

  1. Threaded inserts for stone: drilled and bonded professionally; use M5/M6 bolts.

  2. Plywood plinth method:

     • Mount the stone on 18–24 mm plywood, then attach the legs to the plywood.

     • Plinth can be flush or recessed, edges chamfered for finish.

  3. Full-frame base:

     • A complete leg frame that supports the stone top.

     • Optionally use clear silicone to stop sliding.

Fixing Legs to Stone Table Tops

Fixing Legs to Glass Tops

• Option 1 – Pre-drilled glass:

  • Professionally cut and countersunk holes; attach with stainless bolts.

  • We can supply template files for the hole pattern.

• Option 2 – Bonded metal pads:

  • Use UV-cured glass adhesive with machined pads that the legs bolt to.

  • Usually done by a glassmaker.

• Option 3 – Rest-on frame:

  • Glass sits on a freestanding frame with rubber buffers/grommets.

  • Ideal for heavy dining tables that won’t be moved.

• Option 4 – Plywood plinth method (for opaque glass).

Fixing Legs to Glass Tops

Fixing Legs to Plastic or Recycled Plastic Tops

• For tops 18 mm+ thick:

  • Can use machine bolts tapped directly into the plastic, or threaded inserts for plastic.

• Wood screws may also work depending on the plastic type.

• Leg spacing should stay under 600 mm to prevent sagging.

• Use a full frame for extra support on larger surfaces.

Using Full Frames and Plinths

• Applicable to any top type, but especially useful for hard to drill tops such as stone & glass.

• Frames provide support without direct fixing into the surface.

• Tops can be recessed, flush, or overhang depending on design.

• Use rubber buffers or clear silicone to prevent sliding. Frame will support top weight without fixings, so this is to prevent the top sliding around or falling off.

Hardware and Pilot Hole Guide

• Pilot holes:

  • For softwoods: optional.

  • For hardwoods: ~3 mm pilot hole for 5 mm screw.

  • For plastic: adjust pilot size to the screw or insert spec.

• Material choice:

  • Zinc-plated for indoor use.

  • Stainless steel for outdoor, damp, or green wood.

• Use washers only if outdoor or for added protection.