# Attaching Legs To Tops

One of the most important aspects of your build is how you attach your legs to your top — whether it’s a table, stool, sideboard, TV stand, or even a bed.

The method you use will depend on the material and thickness of your top, as well as how often you plan to remove or reassemble the legs.

### Fixing Legs to Wooden Table Tops

* For tops 18–25 mm or thicker, standard wood screws are the best option.
* Use pan head or cheese head screws; no countersink needed as our slots allow for movement with wood expansion.
* For thinner tops (12–15 mm), consider threaded inserts and M5/M6 bolts.
* For large or heavy tables, use longer screws or lag bolts.
* Use stainless steel screws for green or damp woods.
* Washers: only needed outdoors — use stainless with stainless screws to protect the coating.

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### Using Threaded Inserts

* Ideal when you want to remove or reattach legs frequently.
* Provide a strong, repeatable fixing using M5 or M6 bolts.
* Can be used in wood or plastic tops as thin as 12–15 mm with flat-bottom drilling.
* Drill precisely to the manufacturer’s stated hole size (e.g., 10.6 mm for M6).
* Offers a clean, professional look (Allen key assembly like flat-pack furniture).

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### Fixing Legs to Stone Table Tops

* Options:
  1. Threaded inserts for stone: drilled and bonded professionally; use M5/M6 bolts.
  2. Plywood plinth method:
     * Mount the stone on 18–24 mm plywood, then attach the legs to the plywood.
     * Plinth can be flush or recessed, edges chamfered for finish.
  3. Full-frame base:
     * A complete leg frame that supports the stone top.
     * Optionally use clear silicone to stop sliding.

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### Fixing Legs to Glass Tops

* Option 1 – Pre-drilled glass:
  * Professionally cut and countersunk holes; attach with stainless bolts.
  * We can supply template files for the hole pattern.
* Option 2 – Bonded metal pads:
  * Use UV-cured glass adhesive with machined pads that the legs bolt to.
  * Usually done by a glassmaker.
* Option 3 – Rest-on frame:
  * Glass sits on a freestanding frame with rubber buffers/grommets.
  * Ideal for heavy dining tables that won’t be moved.
* Option 4 – Plywood plinth method (for opaque glass).

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[fixing-legs-to-glass-tops](https://support.thehairpinlegcompany.co.uk/table-legs/diy-guides-and-instructions/diy-essentials/attaching-legs-to-tops/fixing-legs-to-glass-tops)
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### Fixing Legs to Plastic or Recycled Plastic Tops

* For tops 18 mm+ thick:
  * Can use machine bolts tapped directly into the plastic, or threaded inserts for plastic.
* Wood screws may also work depending on the plastic type.
* Leg spacing should stay under 600 mm to prevent sagging.
* Use a full frame for extra support on larger surfaces.

### Using Full Frames and Plinths

* Applicable to any top type, but especially useful for hard to drill tops such as stone & glass.
* Frames provide support without direct fixing into the surface.
* Tops can be recessed, flush, or overhang depending on design.
* Use rubber buffers or clear silicone to prevent sliding. Frame will support top weight without fixings, so this is to prevent the top sliding around or falling off.

### Hardware and Pilot Hole Guide

* Pilot holes:
  * For softwoods: optional.
  * For hardwoods: \~3 mm pilot hole for 5 mm screw.
  * For plastic: adjust pilot size to the screw or insert spec.
* Material choice:
  * Zinc-plated for indoor use.
  * Stainless steel for outdoor, damp, or green wood.
* Use washers only if outdoor or for added protection.